Docklands and the Thames,
Victoria Park to Paternoster
Square. Take a nostalgic
trip back to the East End in
the 1950’s or a stroll around
the Square Mile of the City
of London. It’s all here at
barryoneoff.co.uk
THE CITY of LONDON - A brief history
Copyright 2002 - 2023 ©Barry Carter. All rights reserved
The Square Mile
Greater London
covers around 700
square miles.
However, when we
refer to the “City of
London" we mean
only the area that
occupied the original old walled city built by
the Romans. Founded during the first century
it was the beginning of this great metropolis
we know today.The old city covered an area
of approximately one square mile and was
surrounded by a six metre high wall and a
ditch (or moat). The walls disappeared many
years ago but this area is still referred to as
“The Square Mile” or "The City". It has its
own police force, separate from the
Metropolitan Police. The coat of arms, top
left, belongs to the City of London
Corporation. This body, along with an
annually elected Lord Mayor (not the Mayor
of London), administrates everything within
the square mile and is totally independent of
any other national or London authority. It was
founded centuries ago and apart from the
Throne of England is the oldest governing
body still in existence anywhere in the land.
The City motto is: Domine dirige nos - Lord
direct us.
The City’s flag is the cross of St. George with
a sword in the top left quarter. It represents
the sword that killed Thomas Becket.
City trivia spot
In an interview, Oscar Wilde once said:
“To me the life of the businessman who eats
his breakfast early in the morning, catches a
train for the city, stays there in the dingy,
dusty atmosphere of the commercial world,
and goes back to his house in the evening,
and after supper to sleep, is worse than the
life of the galley slave. His chains are golden
instead of iron”.
Modern architecture
It was only after the exams to become an
official City of London Guide that I started to
see modern architecture in a different light. I
began to realise that we have to move on.
Old buildings that remain such as the
medieval Great Hall of the Guildhall complex,
ancient churches and of course Saint Pauls
Cathedral are still magnificent but as the City
was left almost totally destroyed after the
war, something had to replace buildings that
were beyond restoration and it had to be
done quickly.
Yes, mistakes were made and some of the
post war constructions were hurriedly built to
get the City back on its feet and working
again. Today’s developments are well thought
out and planned to help our ecology as well
as aesthetics. Buildings such as the
"Gherkin"are now more acceptable to people
now.
It is amazing how much trouble is taken when
a new development is planned for the
modern Square Mile to protect existing views.
Every new commercial construction in the
City now has to include a public space or
garden in the plans. Roof gardens are
created if there is
little space below.
The photo
(left)shows the
roof garden at
120 Fenchurch
Street.
The Lungs of The City
As well as present property developers
having to provide an area for the public at
their own expense, which the City maintains
thereafter, there are already over 150 existing
parks and open spaces in this relatively small
area. All are maintained to a high standard by
the City of London Corporation Open Spaces
Department and are known as “the green
lungs of the City”.
Building plans sometimes have had to be
altered simply to protect a London Plane tree
or the view to St. Pauls from certain
locations. This is how much the City
Corporation tries to preserve what is left of its
unique history.
The Phoenix rising from
it’s own ashes
The Great Fire of 1666 destroyed 80% of
The City. The tightly packed buildings with
their jetties overhanging the lower floors
almost touching the buildings opposite
ensured that the fire would not be stopped
before most were devoured by flames. Within
a week after the fire Sir Christopher Wren
produced plans for the complete rebuilding of
the City based on a layout similar to the one
he had seen on his only trip abroad to Paris.
Six days to design a complete city! Did he
have a part time job at Farryners, the bakers
where it all started (only joking)!
Wren's were not the only plans submitted and
by the time discussions had gone on and
finances debated, people had got impatient
and started building their homes and
businesses on the land they occupied before
the fire. This is why, apart from a more recent
developments, the City still follows the street
plan that existed long before the 17th.
Century. It was annoying for the planners but
at least the City began to rise again from the
ashes and trade could once more thrive. To
settle any boundary disputes a panel of 22
judges was set up. These dealt only with
matters arising from the rebuilding and they
became known as the "Fire Judges".
Christopher Wren's office was given the task
of rebuilding 51 of the 88 churches destroyed
in the fire, along with St. Pauls Cathedral,
which incidentally, was totally destroyed
when the wooden scaffolding used at the
time for renovation work, caught fire. Wren
was the man doing the repairs at the time!
Almost three centuries later came World War
II (1939-45) the
City was almost
totally destroyed
again. 2,000
years of its
history wiped out
by two events.
Once again, the building work was started
and the City rose from its ashes for the
second time (the third if you count the Iceni
revolt of 60 AD.). The present day city now
consists of metal and glass constructions
which dwarf the few remaining historical
buildings. Architects like Sir Terry Farrel, The
Gilbert Scots, Norman Foster, Richard
Rogers and others are the modern day
equivalent of Sir Christopher Wren, Nicholas
Hawksmoor and the George Dances.
Wartime Gallery Below.